Laikipia & Lewa Safari Guide: What to Expect in Kenya’s Top Conservancies

While the Masai Mara and Amboseli dominate the headlines, seasoned travelers are increasingly turning their sights toward Northern Kenya. Laikipia and the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy offer an exclusive, off-the-beaten-path alternative that prioritizes conservation, intimacy, and rare wildlife encounters.

Before you dive into your adventure, here is everything you need to know about what to expect in this region. Let’s start by looking at the landscape that sets Laikipia and Lewa apart.

1. The Landscape: Arid Beauty and Dramatic Vistas

Unlike the flat, golden savannahs of the south, the Laikipia Plateau features dramatic, high-altitude terrain.

• Rugged Terrain: Expect hilly landscapes, deep canyons, and scrubby plains.
• The Backdrop: Many lodges are perched on ridges offering "unfettered" views over the plains below, often with the snow-capped peaks of Mount Kenya visible on the horizon.
• Lewa’s Micro-Climate: The Lewa Conservancy offers a softer landscape with more open grazing land and occasional "fever tree" swamps, creating a distinct contrast to the aridity of northern Laikipia.

2. Rare Wildlife: Beyond the Big Five

Laikipia is home to "Northern Specialists"—species found nowhere else.

• The Rhino Capital: Lewa and the nearby Ol Pejeta Conservancy are Kenya’s premier sanctuaries for both Black and White rhinos.
• The Rare North: Keep your binoculars ready for the Grevy’s zebra (thinner stripes and white bellies) and the Reticulated giraffe.
• Predators: This is prime territory for the endangered African Wild Dog, as well as healthy populations of lion, leopard, and cheetah.
• Chimpanzees: Visit the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Ol Pejeta to see rescued chimps in a naturalized environment.

3. Lodge Selection: Recommended Camps for Every Interest

To choose the right lodge in Laikipia, consider whether you want high-octane adventure, luxury, or a deep immersion into conservation; each lodge caters to a different style and experience.

For Adventure & Unique Sleepouts: Loisaba Lodo Springs & Star Beds

Loisaba’s Star Beds let you sleep under the Milky Way on wheeled four-posters set out on private decks. Ideal for:

• Interests: Stargazing, guided nature walks to see hippos, and camel trekking.
• Vibe: Chic, airy, and high-perch views.

For World-Class Rhino Sightings: Lewa Safari Camp

Located within the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, this camp offers an authentic, "no-fuss" safari experience with a heavy focus on wildlife.

• Interests: Seeing the Big 5 and both black and white rhinos. It is a favorite for those who want a traditional safari feel.
• Vibe: Classic safari tents with stone verandas and Italian-inspired cuisine.

For Families & Conservation Fans: Ol Pejeta Bush Camp

Situated along the Ewaso Nyiro River,this camp offers a front-row seat to one of Africa's most successful conservation stories.

• Interests: Visiting the Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Sanctuary and meeting "Najin" and "Fatu" (the world’s last northern white rhinos).
• Vibe: Relaxed, educational, and perfect for families with children.

For Ultra-Luxury & Art: Segera Retreat

If budget is no object, Segera offers a sanctuary of luxury in the heart of the Laikipia Plateau.

• Interests: High-end wellness, private art collections, and scenic flips in a vintage biplane.
• Vibe: Palatial, exclusive, and visually stunning.

For Authentic Community Interaction: Ol Malo

A family-run ranch and lodge that works closely with the local Samburu people.

• Interests: Cultural immersion, horse safaris, and helicopter excursions.
• Vibe: Warm, welcoming, and deeply connected to the local heritage.

4. Unique Activities: Safari Beyond the 4x4

Because much of the land is privately managed, the rules are more flexible than in National Parks:

• Camel Trekking: Experience the "familiar smell" of a camel, which allows you to get closer to wildlife that isn't spooked by the scent of humans.
• Walking Safaris: Guided nature walks let you appreciate the finer details, from shy klipspringers to vibrant flora.
• Horseback Safaris: Explore the bush alongside giraffes and zebras at lodges like Ol Jogi.

5. Travel Logistics

• How to Get There: Most travelers take a light aircraft flight from Wilson Airport (Nairobi). Note that there are typically no direct flights between the Masai Mara and Laikipia; you will usually need to transit via Nairobi.

• Is it Safe? The area depends on tourism and is closely managed by the Kenyan government and local wildlife authorities. The conservancies are far removed from urban centers and livestock grazing areas, ensuring a peaceful and secure environment for guests.

Final Verdict

Laikipia and Lewa represent the "new frontier" of Kenyan tourism. Whether you are sleeping under the stars at Loisaba or tracking rhino at Lewa, expect fewer crowds, more space, and some of the most meaningful wildlife encounters on the continent.